These guys are Tuaregs at a traditional gathering and music festival in northeastern Mali in 2006. They have come together from various parts of the Sahara.
I was lucky enough to go to the festival (different from the quite famous music festival near Timbuktu) with a group of friends. And we were truly lucky. Until a year or so before 2006, this part of Mali, up beyond Kidal, had been off limits because of a Tuareg insurrection. It is now off limits once again, because of a combination of Al Qaeda activity in the region and renewed Tuareg unrest.
We flew to Bamako, the Malian capital in the southwestern portion of the country, then caught a bus to the ancient mud-brick city of Djénné, where we spent a night on the roof of a local inn. Amazing stars. And a donkey that brayed at regular intervals through the night ... usually just when one was finally getting off to sleep. Here is the market of Djénné, with the Great Mosque (reputedly the largest mud-brick structure in the world) behind.
From Djénné we hired a pirogue (long, narrow riverboat) to take us up the Bani river, a tributary of the Niger, to the river port of Mopti. This took a couple of days. We pulled in at night and camped. The boatmen poled us along, a bit like punting. And they just kept it up all day long.
From Mopti we went into the Dogon country, where we visited this market.
And from there we went on up to the Tuareg festival. A friend who was living in Mali at that time organised 4x4s and drivers for us. Adventures abounded, which I don’t have time to recount. The Tuareg rock band Tinariwen added a contemporary element to the festival. A more traditional component was camel racing. One of these lads (I can’t remember which) was the winning jockey in a race.
One of our group, Sophie, liked Mali so much, and Djénné in particular, that she returned and built a mud-brick hotel there: hoteldjennedjenno.com.
It’s done very well until the recent troubles have rather diminished tourist numbers. She does a very good blog: www.djennedjenno.blogspot.com.
It’s done very well until the recent troubles have rather diminished tourist numbers. She does a very good blog: www.djennedjenno.blogspot.com.





